Tuesday 16th August
After a couple of hours school work we headed for Exmouth. The wind had got up during the night and was blowing quite strongly. Luckily for us it was a tail wind which meant great fuel economy for the trip to Exmouth. Again, long straight flat roads with heaps of purple Mulla Mulla flowers growing along the side of the road, and sometimes out across the surrounding countryside.
During the original planning of our trip to Australia, one of the must dos, was to do a swim with Whale Sharks when we got to Exmouth. Unfortunately, not long after we got to Australia, we learnt that the season for the Whale Sharks only ran from about April to July, and we didn’t expect to get to Exmouth until mid to late August, so we had resigned ourselves to the fact that we would miss out on this great opportunity. However we had since learnt that we still might be able to catch a swim with Manta Rays and Turtles.
Not only is Exmouth the centre for the Whale Shark swims, it is also the main centre for access to the famous Ningaloo Reef, said by many to be far better than the Great Barrier Reef. The Ningaloo Reef is one of the World’s most accessible tropical reefs, and runs for 250 km down the west coast of the Exmouth Peninsula. Its biggest asset is the fact that it is miles from anywhere, and therefore not overrun by tourists. In places the reef is only about 100 metres off shore. In brief it is an untouched paradise.
After setting up camp we went to the visitors centre. Everywhere in town there were placards advertising tours for Whale Watching, Swimming with Whale Sharks, Manta Rays and Turtles. We made enquiries with several tour companies only to be told they were no longer doing the Whale Shark Swims as it was too late in the season. Then we heard that some sharks were still about, and that one tour operator was still taking tours.
We tracked them down and the lovely bubbly girl at the office told us yes they were still doing tours, and yes there were still sharks about, and yes they had vacancies for their next tour on Thursday. We looked at each other in disbelief. For 8 months we had resigned ourselves to the fact that we weren’t going to get to swim with Whale Sharks, and then suddenly here was this lovely girl telling us we could be doing it on Thursday.
Even at a cost of $385 per adult and $220 for Cameron, a total of $990, we only hesitated for a couple of seconds. This was a once in a lifetime opportunity and we didn’t intend to let it pass. We had missed on doing the Gibb River Road, and missed on doing a flight over the Horizontal Waterfall. We had nearly missed getting in to Cameron Corner, we weren’t going to miss on this one.
Then the lovely girl in the office got even lovelier by telling us, that seeing it was the end of the season they were offering a discount and we could do the tour as a family for $750. She explained the trip was an all day one, with food and drinks included, and as well as swimming with the whale sharks, we would also be whale watching, snorkelling on Ningaloo Reef, and looking for Turtles and Manta Rays.
For the whole time we would be out in the boat, a spotter plane would be continually searching for the whale sharks and whales and anything else for us to see. The boat only took 20 people per trip, and no more than 10 people were allowed to swim with the whale sharks at any one time.
Once a shark was spotted, 10 people would be dropped in the water to swim with it, while the boat moved ahead and dropped off the second ten. Then the first ten would be picked up and taken ahead and dropped off again. This would be repeated until either the shark disappeared or the tour operators decided it was enough. Accompanying us would be a camera person, who would video the whole day and we could buy the video if we wanted.
We came away on a cloud. What a fantastic turn around for us. At last we would get to swim with a Whale Shark. All we had to do now was hope the wind didn’t get any stronger causing the Tour Operators to cancel.
Hardly daring to believe our luck, we went and got some groceries, and after dropping them off went for a drive to have a look at a new housing subdivision down on the water front. Then it was back to camp for tea.
Wednesday 17th August.
Whale Shark swimming day minus one.
After a couple of hours school work, we went for a drive to have a look at the Cape Range National Park. This is the land area fronting the coast running from basically the top of the Exmouth Peninsula south for about 100 km. A road runs north from Exmouth almost to the top of the peninsula and then swings south and follows the coast for the entire length of the National Park, and it is from this road that access is gained to the beaches fronting the Ningaloo Reef.
Our first stop was the Vlamingh Head Light House, which is sited high on a hill almost at the top of the peninsula.
From one side you look down on the Ningaloo Reef, and on the other side you look out over the Exmouth Gulf. We drove up to the Lookout beside the Light House and joined several other very excited people looking out to sea. We soon realised they were watching whales spouting and breaching just outside the Ningaloo Reef.
We grabbed our binoculars and joined in the fun. The sea seemed to be full of whales. No matter where you looked there were whale spouts, and the dark grey back of whales breaking the surface before they sounded. What an incredible sight. There seemed to be whales everywhere. We watched them for about half an hour before deciding to move on down the coast. We hoped they would still be around for our boat trip tomorrow, when we would be out amongst them.
We drove south along the coast road, calling in at several beaches on the way, before finally getting to Turquoise Bay, about 65 km from Exmouth. Turquoise Bay is very appropriately named, lovely white sand, and pristine turquoise coloured crystal clear water. It had been recommended as an excellent snorkelling sight, with the reef coming in close to the shore.
We had no sooner entered the water and hundreds of fish were swimming around our feet looking for something to eat. We obliged by sharing our French Stick lunch with them.
We spent the remainder of the afternoon snorkelling over the beautiful coral with all its associated beautifully coloured reef fishes and other life.
Just like the old days in Rarotanga when we used to take our Vaka out onto the reef at Titikaveka., and then snorkel over the coral.
Reluctantly, we finally left the beach at about 5.00pm, and headed back to Exmouth. Being fairly late in the afternoon the Kangaroos, or Euros, as they are known in this area, were coming out everywhere, and several times we had to slow down so they would get off the road and let us past. About 10km out of Exmouth the cars in front of us suddenly slowed down and stopped. A female Emu with two chicks was crossing the road. What a fabulous day. And to think we were going to be here for three or four more.
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