Bright to Echuca.

From our camp near BRIGHT we backtracked for about 125 km to BENALLA, and then headed west through SHEPPARTON and on towards ECHUCA.  Our destination was a camp ground at TONGALA, a small town about 30 km southeast of ECHUCA.  We had decided to stay in the TONGALA caravan park because they were heaps cheaper than anything in ECHUCA , which is very much a tourist town.  It was our longest haul yet with the van (277 km), but again the van towed like a dream.  We have now clocked up our first 1000km towing the van.

Our campground is lovely. The only drawback being about 1000 sulphur crested cockatoos which use our shade trees as a roost.  Being the highest trees around, they become a natural target for all the cockatoos in the district to spend the night.  They arrive just on dark accompanied by a huge raucous squawking.  They keep this up for a good half hour fighting for the best perches, and then individual ones spend the rest of the night arguing about it.  Then at about daybreak they all start up again for about another half hour before leaving for their day’s feeding.  Apparently they only visit these trees for about 2 months of the year, December and January. And of course we won’t mention the shit, or the fact that our car, caravan and awning are directly under it.

Yesterday we went into ECHUCA to see the sights.  The main one being the famous old wharf and paddle steamers.  We were just in time to catch a one hour trip on the oldest paddle steamer still operating, the PS Pevensey.  She is the same boat that starred in the film “All the Rivers Run”.  In the film she was renamed The Philadelphia.  She was built in 1911 and is powered by a 20h.p. twin high pressure steam engine.  She is 33.5m long, with a 7m beam, and only draws 1.35m when fully laden (120 tonnes).

The ride on this boat was definitely one of the highlights of our trip so far. It was so peaceful watching the countryside slide by, accompanied by the quiet slop slop of the paddles hitting the water and the rhythmic chug of the steam engine.  Living a piece of Australian history.

 Steering and turning the boat on the swiftly flowing river was an intricate piece of seamanship.  The captain had to have his timing down to a split second and watching him at work was awesome to say the least.  Talking to him afterwards he said he had to do 18,000 hours apprenticeship before even being allowed alone on the bridge of a much smaller paddle steamer, then progressing to 5 years under a captain on board the PS Pevensey before he could take over as captain. Not a mugs job by a long shot.

He told us the Murray River was presently running 14 feet above it’s normal level, which meant all his normal reference points were under water, and this, coupled with the stronger current, made for a hard day at the office.

After our cruise we spent the afternoon wandering around the old port area of ECHUCA.  It has been retained much as it was back in the late 1800s, down to period costumes and a horse and cart plodding along the street.  We rounded our tour off with a couple of cold beers in the Star Hotel, complete with its underground escape tunnel, used by illegal drinkers in the old days to escape the police raids.  A great day thoroughly enjoyed by all of us despite the 37degree heat.

Today we have had a day off.  A bit of shopping this morning and a couple of swims and several beers this afternoon, doing our best to keep cool. The thermometer shows 42^oC in the sun with a gentle breeze keeping it tolerable. Needless to say the air conditioner in the caravan has been working overtime. 

Tomorrow we head to BENDIGO, about 100 km away, to explore real gold mining country.  Hopefully the bloody cockatoos won’t keep us awake too much tonight.

The Great Alpine Road Circuit

We had decided to do the Great Alpine Road circuit today, but got off to a bad start when Cameron began complaining that an earache he had had for the last couple of days was getting worse and was now also affecting his jaw.  We decided to get him checked by a doctor in BRIGHT, so it was about 11.30 before we left town.  The Great Alpine Road goes from BRIGHT through the Alpine National Park and down to OMEO. On the way it passes through the towns of HARRIETVILLE, HOTHAM HEIGHTS Alpine Village, and DINNERPLAIN, another Alpine Village.  If you continue on south from OMEO you come out at BRUTHEN, which you may remember was where we spent our first night on the road after leaving TRARALGON.

However to avoid backtracking, once you get to OMEO you can return to BRIGHT via a second road through the Alpine Park,  passing through the towns of  FALLS CREEK Alpine Village, and MOUNT BEAUTY,  hence the Great Alpine Road circuit.  We had been advised by the Information Centre at BRIGHT that it was best to do the trip in the reverse order so that’s what we did.  The total round trip is about 250 km and we were told to allow about 7hrs.  We realised it was going to be a long day.

After leaving BRIGHT we were very soon climbing a range topping out at 900m, with beautiful views from the top overlooking MOUNT BEAUTY township, nestled in the valley below. 

We dropped down into MOUNT BEAUTY and then immediately started climbing again towards FALLS CREEK.  This time after a long, slow, very windy 30km climb, we arrived at FALLS CREEK at an altitude of 1700m. (And we thought our trip up Mt Buffalo yesterday was a good one).  On the way up we took a short walk to a waterfall which no one knew existed until it was uncovered by bushfires in 2006.

Once up on the tops at FALLS CREEK we travelled for about 15km along the tops.  It was like driving through a lunar landscape with views for miles in all directions.  We did another short walk to see a Hut, (or hoot as the Irish lady at the Information Centre called it).  This is the oldest known existing hut that was used by early graziers when they bought their cattle up to graze the ‘high country’.  It was built in 1869.  Very reminiscent of the high country hut seen in the film, The Man From Snowy River.

After having lunch beside the ‘hoot’, we descended to OMEO, about 75 km away, another slow very windy road, arriving there at 4.30. We ordered some ‘fush and chups’, and while they were cooking had a beer in the local.

At about 6.00 we started the return journey, climbing up through the flash ski resort town of DINNER PLAIN, and out onto the tops again, arriving at HOTHAM HEIGHTS Alpine village at an altitude of 1800m.  We had been told that this is the highest sealed road in Australia.  Another short walk took us up to the stone cairn marking Mount Hotham itself, at an altitude of 6100 feet.  I think Egmont is 8260 feet.  By this time it was about 7.15 and the sun was starting to set out to the west.  We could see in the distance the ragged tops of Mount Buffalo about 50km away, and a 360 degree panorama of mountains and ranges all around us.  Not at all like looking at New Zealand mountains.  These were all very rounded, or almost flat plateaus. You could see why the old timers went to all the trouble to bring their cattle up here to graze.  Thousands and thousands of acres of grazing land.

From there it was a slow winding steep descent of 30 odd km back down to the old Gold Mining settlement of HARRIETVILLE, and then back to camp arriving at about 8.30pm.  A long day, but what a wonderful scenic trip.  Oh, the drops the doctor prescribed for Cameron’s ear seem to be doing the trick.

Ned Kelly and Mount Buffulo

Tuesday morning we drove into GLENROWAN to what was advertised as an information centre about Ned Kelly.  We were just in time for the start of an animated 3- dimensional show. (About the best way I can describe it).  Suffice to say it was VERY realistic and frightened the sh1t out of Cameron, especially when they took us into the hotel we had just seen get burned down, and we had to stand about in the smoke and burnt timber and the next minute with a hell of a crash, half the roof fell down in front of us.

We also witnessed the shootout at the pub, with shots going off all around us, the sounds of people getting shot, and the police yelling orders.  An incredible show, and all the idea and creation of one man.  Talking to him afterwards he said it was his great grandfather who actually made the armour for the Kelly gang.

After the show we had to settle our nerves with some grocery shopping and lunch in WANGARATTA, about 20 km NW of Glenrowan, a major shopping centre for the surrounding  farming district.  After returning to camp and a swim in the pool we went back into Glenrowan to look at the sites where all the action had taken place.  Despite what we had been told in the pub the day before, although there was nothing visibly left, the place where the pub had been, and all the action that took place around it was well signposted and documented.

Tuesday night, on the spur of the moment, we decided that instead of heading west to ECHUCA on Wednesday,  we would go north east through MYRTLEFORD,  to BRIGHT,  which is between Mt BUFFALO NATIONAL PARK and ALPINE  NATIONAL PARK , about a 100 km trip.  We thought it would be nice to have a look around the National Parks.

At present, Wednesday night, we are in a motor camp beside the BUCKLAND RIVER, which is a mountain stream about the size of the Waiwhakaiho River, just out of BRIGHT, at a place called POREPUNKAH.  (Don’t ask me why).  This afternoon we took a drive up to Mt Buffalo, a 25km climb rising 950m. The road was a bit like going up the Whangamomona Saddle but for a continual climb of 25km.

Once we got up onto the plateau at the top, at an altitude of 1300m, we could see in the distance a huge rock sticking up on the skyline.  It appeared to be precariously balanced on other rocks.  We took a walk up to it and were overawed by the whole thing.  This bloody great rock balanced on the skyline and views all around for 100 miles.  Brilliant.  And to think we nearly missed it.

Cameron has had a couple of swims in the river, we joined him for the first one,  and tomorrow we are going to take a day trip further along the GREAT ALPINE ROAD towards Mt HOTHAM, which is further into the Alpine National Park.

Thanks for the Caravan Hitch Lock, Ken.  We put it on as soon as we unhitched the van today.  It’s very comforting to know that we don’t have to worry about someone nicking the caravan while we are away. 

That’s it folks.  Time for bed.

Gembrook to Glenrowan.

Well we have finally wrenched ourselves away from the Dandenongs.  We were woken at about 6.00 this morning to rain pouring down.  But by 9.00 it had stopped and we packed up and after prolonged farewells and much advice about the best route to take, we headed for Ned Kelly Country, virtually due north through beautiful rolling hills and farmland.  There is lots of grass and hay bales everywhere, but virtually no stock.  After 12 or 13 yrs of drought farmers have had to sell most of their stock.  Now with all the rain they have had, there is grass above fence height, but no stock to eat it.   They have baled lots of it but of course no one wants it.  The further north we came, the drier it got.  We got to GLENROWAN at about 4.00, a distance of 257 km. The van towed like a dream and the Pajero handled it with ease, including some pretty big hills. 

We had no sooner parked the van and other campers arrived to introduce themselves and enquire about our travels.  Before we knew it one had turned up with an ‘anti caravan theft device’ - a metal shackle and padlock you lock over your tow ball to stop someone nicking your van while you are away sightseeing.  He had owned two for years, and decided we should have his spare one.  Then another guy turned up with an Aussie hat for Cameron to wear on Australia Day this Wednesday.  We have been completely blown away by the friendliness of the Aussies wherever we go.  

While this was happening someone else pointed out about a dozen wild kangaroos in the paddock next to the camp, so Cameron was off to stalk and photograph them.  He was able to get within about 50 meters before they moved off.  Then a couple of them put on a boxing display which we managed to catch on video.  Cameron was on an absolute high, seeing his first kangaroos in the wild, and being able to get so close up to them.

After that we went down to the pub in GLENROWAN, which is about the size of Midhurst.  We got talking to a local and asked him about what there was to see of the remains of Ned Kelly’s days, and he said “Nothing.  It’s all been cleared or burnt.”  All that enables the town to survive is tourism, people like us coming here, just to see where it all happened.  Apparently there is a very good information centre in town which recounts the whole Kelly legend so we will have a look at that tomorrow.  He was able to direct us to the site of the old pub where the Kelly gang holed up for the last time and where Ned made his famous appearance in his armour.  Apparently there is nothing there except a sign indicating the spot.  We’ll have a look tomorrow.  The Kelly family farm was about 14 km out of town to the east, but again there is nothing to show where it was.  A bit disappointing but there is still plenty of Ned Kelly memorabilia about town for us to look at tomorrow. 

We’ll probably stay here for a couple of nights, taking in the sights and having a look at WANGARATTA, and then head west to ECHUCA on the Murray River where we hope to see and get a ride on a paddle steamer.  Our travels after that are going to depend very much on what parts of the country are still above water.  On the news tonight they estimated just over 20% of Victoria was under water with the worst still to come.   At this stage we are planning to head across to TASMANIA at about the end of the first week of February. 

Episode Six. Tuesday 18th – Friday 21st Jan.

Hi again everyone. 

Tuesday morning saw us back on the Metro heading towards Melbourne Central again.  This time our destinations were the M.C.G. Stadium, Fitzroy Gardens and Cooks Cottage, and finally the Old Melbourne Goal. The guided tour of the MCG took about 1 ½ hrs and that was rushed.  Being allowed to step onto the hallowed turf was quite an experience, but listening to all the facts and figures about capacity crowds, number of sixes hit, who hit them, who the bowler was, and on what day of what test, soon became a bit much for all of us.  However we have done it and have the photos to prove it.  The tour included going through the players changing rooms, preparation rooms and everything else they did before a game, as well as sitting in the seats they sit in while waiting their turn to bat.  Cameron’s main comments were “Jack and Alex will be really jealous that I’ve done this”.

A short walk from the MCG had us in Fitzroy Gardens where the house that Captain Cook lived in before he started exploring the world, has been erected, after being dismantled brick by brick and shipped from England to Melbourne.  The house and its gardens have been recreated as they were in Cook’s day and that was very interesting, except to Cameron. 

From there it was on to the old Melbourne Gaol where Ned Kelly was kept and where he was eventually hanged.  This was a rather eerie experience to go into his old cell and see the gallows as they were in his day.  A very depressing place and one we were all glad to be out of.  We also went into the court room where he was tried, and took part in a mock reconstruction of his trial.

Wednesday we drove into Ringwood to pick up our caravan insurance policy which we had had to have posted to Howards work as they needed a Victorian address. After that we stopped at a suburban shopping centre and bought some airbeds for use in our tent.

Thursday was a day of rest, spent lazing around our camp grounds. Today, Friday the 21^st, (HAPPY BIRTHDAY KERRI, Sorry I can’t text you, no coverage, hope you had an awesome day, love you heaps) we went up to the HEALESVILLE Wildlife Sanctuary which is about 30 km north of GEMBROOK.  About 100 acres of land set aside as, you guessed it, a Wildlife Sanctuary.  Just about every Australian animal and bird is kept here.  The highlights were the Platypus enclosure and a hands-on and flying display of some of Aussies largest flying birds, including several Cockatoos, Owls, and of course the wedge tailed eagle.  The only downside was the lack of beer, and the heat, 37 degrees.

The above photo was taken by Cameron.

Saturday and Sunday we intend blobbing out here at Gembrook, and then on Monday we will reluctantly leave this beautiful spot hidden in the Dandenongs, and head north towards WANGARATTA and Ned Kelly country.  Planning our trip has become a bit complicated because so much of Victoria is currently under water, but after WHANGARATTA we hope to head west towards the goldfields areas of BENDIGO and BALLARAT, but again that will depend on the flood levels in those areas.  Time for another beer.

A day in Melbourne

It’s been another busy day.  We even set the alarm so that we could make the most of our day for a change.  We were in Melbourne Central by half past 10. 

First on our list was the Eureka Skydeck. 

This is the Southern Hemisphere’s highest viewing platform on the 88^th floor, approximately 280m up – the tower itself is 300m in height.  We got magnificent views from all over Melbourne.  There are 30 viewfinders set up around the skydeck, specifically aimed at the many different landmarks Melbourne has to offer.  An excellent service!  From here we could see Flemington Racecourse – home of the Melbourne Cup, the Melbourne Cricket Ground or MCG - where on the weekend Australia beat England in a thrilling One Day International, the Rod Laver Arena – home of the Australian Tennis Open, where we could see games in progress. 

We could also see Station Pier, from where we will depart to sail to Tasmania, and Urban managed to spot the international airport and saw a plane take off. On the horizon to the east we could also see the Dandenong Ranges.

After eating a packed lunch high in the sky, we descended back down to Earth and walked to the Polly Woodside Maritime Museum.  The centre piece of the museum is an old iron-hulled sailing ship dating from 1885, which has been beautifully restored.  Cameron enjoyed assisting our tour guide in enacting out parts of how the ship operated including a short stint at the helm.

With the temperature plunging from about 30 to 17 degrees for most of the day, we were glad to get to get back to our cosy caravan for dinner.

Dandenongs

Well here we are safely tucked up in the DANDENONG Ranges near GEMBROOK.  Beautiful rolling country side covered in gum trees with farmland cut out here and there. 

Luckily we are well above flood level.  Poor Queenslanders.  Boy, are they copping it.  There is NOTHING else on the news over here.  Now VICTORIA is starting to cop it, but apart from some very heavy rain and minor surface flooding on the roads, we haven’t seen anything.  They are now saying Victoria may cop it in about 8 weeks time when the floodwaters from the DARLING RIVER headwaters, which start in behind BRISBANE, eventually make their way down the Darling River to where it meets the MURRAY RIVER at MILDURA.  Apparently the Murray is already full, and once the Darling Floods hit it there could be problems.  We had hoped to be in that area at about that time so we may have to change our plans.  Bloody useless Australian weather – always raining. !!!!  We are going to base ourselves here for a few days while we explore MELBOURNE and the DANDENONGS.   On Friday 14^th we drove into RINGWOOD on the outskirts of Melbourne.  It absolutely bucketed down all day.  We bought hopefully the last of the stuff we need for camping and returned to a very soggy campground. Saturday we went back to Melbourne again, this time by train.  First we drove the 24 km to BELGRAVE through the beautiful little villages of COCKATOO and EMERALD, where I think cousin Tricia lived about 30 years ago.  From Belgrave we took the metro into Central Melbourne, a trip of about 1 hour.  We were soon on the free Inner city tram to the Melbourne Aquarium where we spent a fascinating 3 hrs.  Then it was the return trip back to camp. 

 Today, Sunday, is a day off, and with a bit of spare time on our hands we have practised putting up the tarpaulin shade with one corner over the back half of the Pajero.  The tarp is 3.5m by 6m and this will give us good shade for the tent, as well as room to cook and eat and also access to the back of the Pajero where our gear and the Waeco fridge is kept.   We have also put up our new tent for the first time to make sure all is OK.  At present we are having lunch under our caravan awning out of the sun.  Our NZ flag is fluttering in the breeze, and this attracts many passersby who stop for a chat and ask about our travel plans.  Cameron is living in the pool, but occasionally stops by for food.  Life is great. With time on our hands we have also composed an email to Creative Caravans outlining our teething problems.  We have attached a copy for your interest.  We will be interested to see what their response is.  Watch this space.

Here endeth the lesson.

Here's Urban's letter to Creative Caravans:

Dear Sir/Madam.

Issue 136 of the Australian Caravan and Motorhome Magazine featured a review of Creative Caravans Grant Family Tourer.  The van had been supplied by Ian Grant Caravans of Traralgon.  The review gave a glowing report of the van, and as a result we decided this was the perfect van for our upcoming 12 month holiday around Australia.

We placed an order for our van in April 2010, to be ready for us to start our holiday early in January 2011.

In mid December 2010, Ian Grants Caravans advised us that our van had arrived at their yard, and was ready for us to pick up.

We arrived in Australia on the 2^nd January, and on Tuesday the 4^th January took possession of our brand new caravan.  As we were very much novices, we took the precaution of booking into the Traralgon Park Lane Caravan Park immediately adjacent to Ian Grants yard, just in case we had any teething problems with the van.  As it happened this was a wise precaution.

Our first problem occurred when my wife tried to turn on the electric element on the stove.  It wouldn’t heat up. While my wife was trying to sort this out, I decided to fill the two water tanks in order to check that both them, the water pump, and relevant pipe work were all in good working order.  I inserted the hose into the external filler opening and turned the tap on.

I suddenly got the feeling that all was not well.  Removing the hose and peering into the opening,  I realised I was getting a birds eye view of the floor under the bunk, and it all looked rather soggy.  I removed the cap on the second tank and noticed it had a completely different view. This one actually had plumbing attached to it.

I quickly removed the mattress and base boards from the bunk, to find the entire floor under the bunk awash, and the relevant plumbing lying in the water.  Frantic mopping with several towels has hopefully prevented too much damage, but only time will tell if this little incident has caused any lasting damage.

As you can well imagine, by now my wife and I were becoming a little concerned about the quality of workmanship in our nice new caravan.

A quick visit back to Ian Grants Caravan yard and their maintenance man, Ron, was soon on the job.  He glued the plumbing into place, and just as a precaution, I gently pulled on the plumbing attached to the second filler.  This too quickly came away in my hand.  More gluing by Ron.

You may want to have a quick word with your employee responsible for completing this part of the caravans construction. Chances are he has never heard of the term “Good Workmanship”, and also the person who checked and tested the plumbing.  Perhaps they don’t fully appreciate their duties and responsibilities.   From your copy of the records for our van, you will be quickly able to establish who these employees are. Our van has the number CC1285 stamped on the chassis.

Having solved the obvious plumbing problems, we then turned our attention to the electric element on the stove.  Everything appeared to be working except the element.  A check of the pre delivery check lists supplied with the van, showed the stove had been checked and tested.  We therefore assumed it had been working when it left your factory.  We were completely baffled, and Ron eventually returned to Ian Grants to seek help.  He ended up ringing Creative Caravans, and I understand ended up speaking to the owner, who was also unable to help.

From discussion among Ian Grants staff, it was suggested that maybe the stove wasn’t plugged in, but this was deemed extremely unlikely due to the pre delivery check and tests. However anything was worth a try, and after much searching the lead and plug for the stove were found lying on the floor in the cupboard under the stove.  The plug was threaded through the hole into the adjoining cupboard and plugged in to the hot point located there.  At last was had an element that worked.

Again you may want to have words with the employees concerned.  They are certainly not doing the job you are paying them to do.

Believing we now had all our problems sorted out, we bravely took our van on the road for the first time.  To our delight it towed like a dream and for the first time since taking possession of the van we began to relax and enjoy our lovely new home.  We enjoyed a few days around the lakes Entrance area, and then headed back west to the Dandenong Ranges to enjoy the spectacular scenery and attractions offered. 

Access to our camp ground was down a corrugated metal road which we very carefully and slowly negotiated, being astutely aware of our investment following behind us.

On arrival at our camp site we began to set up. My wife opened the van door and her loud exclamation of “Oh My God” quickly drew my attention.  On entering the van we found the stove lying face down on the floor under the table. Luckily the gas pipe was still attached, and appeared to be undamaged.  Not so the electric cables for the electronic gas ignition.  One corner of the table had struck the base of the upstand for the table, inflicting an unsightly gash.

On examination we could see the stove had never been fixed in place, but simply slid into the cabinetry and left.   There was no sign of any screws, glue, or anything else having been applied to hold it in place.

Being well aware that any repairs I attempted without due authority may well invalidate your warranty, something had to be to ensure our safety.  We obviously couldn’t use the stove as it was and couldn’t travel to get it repaired.  We were also out of communication range.

We stood the stove up and reconnected the electrical cables to the best of our ability.  We then lifted the stove up and slid it back into the recess in the cabinetry.  A cautious test showed it still worked.  Our problem now was we obviously couldn’t travel, knowing the stove could easily fall out again.

I decided the best way to solve the problem was to secure the stove into the cabinetry by fixing two small self tapping flathead screws into the front of the cabinetry immediately adjacent to the front edge of the stove.  Only trouble was this involved a 40 km round trip to the nearest hardware store to obtain the screws.

 I have now fixed the stove in this manner.  It’s not pretty but it’s doing the job.  Again the quality of workmanship from your factory leaves a lot to be desired.

While we are on the subject of quality of workmanship, you may like to know that while most extractor fans mounted above the stove are designed to remove cooking smells from the kitchen area, ours very effectively blows dust and cooking smells all round the inside  of the van.  I’ve got a hunch it may be either installed upside down, or somehow the electric supply to it has been reversed.  Either way it would be nice to have it extracting cooking smells to the outside as I’m sure the manufacturer intended it should.

To say we are a little disappointed with the quality of workmanship and level of quality control emanating from your factory, would be like saying “Noah made a little boat, threw a couple of sheep in it, and sailed around Melbourne Harbour for a couple of days.”

I eagerly await your suggestions on how you intend to help us satisfactorily resolve these matters.  Hopefully nothing further goes wrong in the interim.

Urban and Christel Broadmore.